Fuel Pump Resistor Replacement
The fuel pump resistor is a weak link in the '97 and up Grand Prixs; failure is quite common, and in certain areas, it's actually under recall. Those of us the purchased our Grand Prixs "pre-owned" are not likely to receive notice of any recalls, however. Consult your local dealer's service writer for more information.

If you suspect that your fuel pump resistor has failed, the bottom portion of this page outlines a method to bypass the resistor, and hopefully get the car running long enough to get you home (if you're doing the repair yourself), or to a trusted mechanic or dealer.

In most cases, the symptoms were that the car will start as normal, idle for 2-3 seconds, and promptly shut off.

For the GM fuel pump resistor relocation kit, call Grand Auto at 1-800-571-0020 and order part number 88951182. The kit runs about $30 plus shipping.


As always, be sure to detach the negative terminal from the battery. This is for your safety, as well as to reset the PCM, as you should always do when you make a repair or modification that will effect the car's performance.

Remove the passenger side headlight. You will not be able to see the fuel pump resistor if you have a 1998 or newer Grand Prix; it's behind a part of the washer fluid reservoir, behind the fender. Chances are good that you'd be able to see the fuel pump resistor from underneath the car. What's important, however, is just that you find the wiring harness, which is probably lying right directly behind your battery.

Disconnect the wiring harness. Let the resistor side be where it is; removing the stock resistor is completely up to you.


Plug the new fuel pump resistor harness in, and route the wiring along the inside of the fenderwell to your new location. In this example, the resistor is placed just above the battery as shown; the relocation directions from GM will tell you to attach the resistor to the firewall. That, again, is your call.

Make sure that the screw you're using to attach the backing plate and resistor isn't long enough to do damage to your fender from the inside, if you choose to mount yours in the location shown. It's also very important that you make sure any and all vacuum lines, fluid lines, etc. are kept away from the fuel pump resistor, as it tends to get quite hot.


View from across the engine bay; this one will be easy to replace the next time it goes bad.


Close-up. Yes, the resistor is the white 'U'-shaped creature.


The all-important Jumper Test. If you do this, and the car runs, then you know that the fuel pump resistor is the culprit. Note: while the jumper is in place, your fuel pump will be running at high speed all the time. This puts great stress on the fuel pump. This is a temporary fix.


In the case of this 1998 Grand Prix, the relay needed was #14. In some Grand Prixs, it will be #19. Obviously, if your car does not have a #19 relay, you can count on using the #14 relay. What's important is the number and orientation of the spades on the relay.

If you look closely in the pic to the right, there is a red line connecting 2 out of the (5) slots. Place a small (16 AWG or smaller) short wire between these two slots as shown, and reinsert the relay to pin them down. Start the car. Does it idle now? Then that was your problem.

Get moving. Remember that you're running your pump at high speed. No racing.

There is no warranty, express or implied, on the information contained herein. Use of this information for the purpose of modifying or repairing your car is at your own risk, and RMCGP, Mike Pedrick, et al, is in no way responsible for any damages incurred to yourself or your car.